Do Ferreiro Albariño 2023

Most Albariño is pleasant, refreshing, and forgettable by the time you put the glass down. Do Ferreiro is none of those things. It is the producer other winemakers in Rías Baixas measure themselves against — the one that proves this grape is not just a beach wine but something capable of complexity and age. White flowers, fresh grass, a round palate with pungent fruit and an almost salty twist on the finish. That salinity is the Atlantic — these vines grow close enough to the coast to taste the ocean. It is fresh and balanced but it is not simple. There is a mineral backbone here that most Albariño does not have. Wine Advocate scored the 2023 at 93+ points. At $34, that is remarkable for a white wine. And unlike most whites, this one improves in bottle for up to a decade. Buy two. Open one now. Forget about the other one for three years.