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The Move$18-24
Hedges Family Estate Red Mountain CMS 2021
Biodynamic Bordeaux blend from a château on a dusty hillside in the middle of the Washington desert. Twenty dollars.
Producer
Hedges Family Estate
Region
Red Mountain, Washington
Varietal
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah
Vintage
2021

Beckett Stone
2026-04-17
The Short Take
Hedges Family Estate CMS 2021 is a Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah blend from Red Mountain that should cost three times what it does. Biodynamic farming, estate fruit, dark berry, graphite, smoke, and a structure that punches absurdly above its price. At $18-24 this is the gateway to taking Washington wine seriously.
The Hedges château sits on Red Mountain like somebody dropped a piece of Saint-Émilion in the middle of the sagebrush. Full-on turrets. Long driveway. Biodynamic farming on a property that from the road looks like it belongs in the south of France, not between Benton City and Richland.
That is not just branding. Tom Hedges and his family have been doing this since 1987 and the wines show it. CMS is their entry-level Bordeaux blend, Cabernet-Merlot-Syrah, and it is the bottle I recommend to anyone who still thinks Washington means Chateau Ste. Michelle and nothing else. Dark berry, graphite, a little smoke, tannins that are soft enough to open tonight but serious enough to cellar for three or four years.
The price is the trick. Twenty dollars. Twenty. I picked up a case at a shop in Kennewick this morning for $19 a bottle and I am already planning to ship a second case home. Put this in a cellar next to a $60 Bordeaux and watch guests get confused in the best way.
Pairs With
Grilled lamb, mushroom risotto, weeknight pasta, conversation.
