Bodegas Borsao Tres Picos Garnacha 2022

Campo de Borja is not Rioja. Nobody is talking about it at dinner parties. That is precisely why the value here is absurd. Old-vine Garnacha — some of these vines are 65 years old, head-pruned on volcanic soil at altitude — and they are charging $16 for it. Dark cherry, roasted plum, cedar, milk chocolate, espresso, violet. More delicate and floral than you would expect from old-vine anything. The tannins are downy and ripe. It is full-bodied but not heavy — there is a freshness from the altitude that keeps it moving. This is the bottle that converts people who think Spanish wine means only Rioja. Bring it to a dinner party and watch people photograph the label. At $16, you can afford to be generous with it.